Wested fit question (with pic)

Greetings - I have a question for the learned folk here.

I recently purchased a Wested custom 'Raiders' jacket, and I am loving it - however, it seems to do something odd, and I'm not sure if it's just the way the jacket is built, or if I should have ordered different measurements... here's a pic:



This is with the jacket on, unzipped, and my arm just hanging naturally to my side.

Should this area of the back panel/action pleat be 'flapped' this far open, or should the panel be more closed and 'neat' in appearance?

My chest measures 43", and the jacket is a size 44 - it feels and *seems* to fit me correctly across the chest, even when zipped all the way to the top. Is the jacket actually a size too large for me (given the width of the back panel), and I should have requested a size 42? Or is this just the way a Wested 'hangs' due to the design and construction?

I tried simulating having an elastic strap between the inside edges of the action pleat to hold them closer to each other by pinning them through the lining, but the look remained the same. I did not request elastic straps to be installed between the pleats, as I figured that if the construction of the jacket required it, they would have been installed without my asking. My Disney/Cooper jacket has elastic straps, and the action pleat on that jacket does not react this way, but that jacket was also purchased 20 years ago, is a size Medium, and is smaller in every dimension than this new Wested, including the overall width of the back panel.

It looks great from every other angle, but I'm not sure what to think about this. Have others among you run into this same situation? How did you solve it? Does it need solving, or is this just how the jacket looks on Harrison and I never really picked up on it before?

Thanks in advance for your input...

I have three Wested Raiders jackets in lamb, cow and goat hide. Just tried them on to compare to your image and they don't do what yours does. That amount of stick out looks like a fault. On mine, there is a little bit of "puff", but nothing like yours. The fact that you are asking about it means it looks wrong. I would request a fix up or exchange, which is a bother, but a bit more time to get it right means a jacket that looks right for a long time to come.

The more I look at the jacket and how it fits and reacts, I'm wondering if my shoulders slope more than the jacket design allows (although I haven't had difficulty with any other garment - suits, shirts, other coats, etc.) -if I raise my shoulders, the 'flare' reduces quite a bit and the yoke seam straightens out.

I'm definitely puzzled...

LZeitgeist said:

The more I look at the jacket and how it fits and reacts, I'm wondering if my shoulders slope more than the jacket design allows (although I haven't had difficulty with any other garment - suits, shirts, other coats, etc.) -if I raise my shoulders, the 'flare' reduces quite a bit and the yoke seam straightens out.

I'm definitely puzzled...

Click to expand...

Sounds like it may be too tight around the shoulders. When you relax your shoulders it pulls the fabric upwards, and when you raise them, it gives more slack?

Actually no, the reverse - the fit is actually comfortable and the shoulder seams seem to be in the right place - when I stand normally, arms at my sides, the horizontal yoke seam curves downward and the pleats spread open. When I raise my shoulders beyond my normal posture, the horizontal yoke seam straightens out and the pleats close more.

Exchanged a couple e-mails with Gemma - they looked at the pics I sent and determined that the back of the jacket is too wide and it needs to be altered.

So, after Halloween, I'm sending it back to Wested for alterations...

Thanks for the input and advice - thought I'd post the resolution in case other people run into this same issue in their future jacket purchases.

The jacket is en route back to Wested - crossing fingers, toes and everything else that it will fit smoothly once it comes back. :: praying ::

Don't forget, even if it's lamb.. goat etc., leather has to break in and it needs to get broken in on the wearer by wearing. That said I trust Wested ( Gemma) if they feel the back needs to be adjusted, ok they know better than I do, just remember gotta break in the leather. Just advise I want to see you're happy with your purchase. Good luck

Yup, I know it's got to break in, but it's not stiffness that's causing it to stick out. The jacket drapes wonderfully and softly, much moreso than I expected, especially with it being goat. I trust that they've seen it before and know how to correct it.

Update - Day 15...

The jacket is FINALLY back in Wested's hands. It took nearly two weeks in transit since the stupid Customs office was holding it for payment of charges despite the package and the paperwork being clearly marked 'Return for Refund'. Idiots.

Am asking them to adjust the width of the back as they see fit to correct the problem in the photo at the top of this thread, and also to add the 'Raiders jacket by Peter Botwright' tag they forgot to include the first time, shorten the side straps an inch, and add elastic between the action pleats (which I'd apparently incorrectly assumed would be a standard inclusion in all of these jackets).

I'm hoping to have the jacket back in hand to be able to enjoy over Thanksgiving adventures with the family. *crossing fingers and praying*

Update - Day 21

The jacket is headed back home after Wested's additional attentions... hoping it will show up Monday and that all is as it should be...

Got it back from Wested!

They did a great job with the alterations - I'm very happy with the results and I plan for this to be my go-to jacket for a long time to come.

BRING IT, OLD MAN WINTER!!!

THANK YOU, PETER, GEMMA AND WESTED!!

I'm glad your happy, enjoy your jacket !!! Good luck with everything !!!